ONLINE LECTURE

The Making of Japan's Denim and Jeans Industry
Dr. Rika Fujioka, The University of Tokyo

7:00 - 8:15 pm (PST), Thursday, December 3, 2026
ONLINE Zoom Webinar

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Japanese jeans have attracted growing attention around the world. How did Japan develop its own denim and jeans industry, and what historical factors influenced its development?

This talk explores the historical development of Japan’s denim and jeans industry through three perspectives. First, it examines the historical roots of denim production in the Bitchū and Bingo region, in present-day Okayama and Hiroshima prefectures, where a long history of indigo dyeing and cotton textile production helped lay the foundations for the region’s later development as a center of denim production. Second, it considers the influence of American jeans in postwar Japan, where jeans came to symbolize modernity and freedom. The popularity of American brands, particularly Levi’s, shaped consumer aspirations and provided a benchmark for Japanese manufacturers. Third, it explores changes in the industry from the 1990s onward, as production shifted to other parts of Asia and domestic production regions declined. In response, some entrepreneurs sought to establish their own Japanese jeans brands, drawing on the capabilities of established production regions. Some Japanese companies have developed their businesses in the global fast-fashion market by offering high-quality products at affordable prices. These developments illustrate the diverse sources of competitiveness in Japan’s denim and jeans industry.

By tracing these developments, the talk examines how regional industrial traditions, American cultural influences, and changing business strategies contributed to the development of Japan’s denim and jeans industry, highlighting the diverse sources of its competitiveness.

LECTURER

Rika FUJIOKA

Rika Fujioka is Professor of Business History at The University of Tokyo, Japan. Her research examines the development of modern retailing and the apparel industry in Japan, focusing on how these industries emerged in the context of Westernization and developed distinctive business models and sources of competitiveness.

Her publications include “Competitiveness of the Japanese Denim and Jeans Industry: The Cases of Kaihara and Japan Blue, 1970–2015” (in Europe Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry, Manchester University Press, 2018, co-authored with Ben Wubs) and “The Formation of a Technology-Based Fashion System, 1945–1990: The Source of the Lost Competitiveness of Japanese Apparel Companies” (Enterprise and Society, 22(2), 2021, co-authored with Pierre-Yves Donzé).

She currently serves as principal investigator for several Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (JSPS) KAKENHI projects, including one examining structural changes in the global fashion industry driven by stricter EU environmental regulations.

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